• Lack of Awareness: Sustainable fashion is still a relatively new concept in South Africa and there is limited public knowledge and awareness about it. This can make it difficult to attract customers who are willing to pay a premium for environmentally-friendly clothing.

• High Start-up Costs: Creating a sustainable clothing brand requires significant investment in research and development, as well as eco-friendly materials and production methods. This can be challenging for small businesses in South Africa, where access to capital is limited.

• Supply Chain Challenges: Sourcing sustainable materials in South Africa can be a challenge, as the country is not known for its sustainable textile production. This makes it difficult to produce high-quality sustainable clothing at a reasonable cost.

• Competition from Established Brands: Established brands in South Africa may have a significant advantage when it comes to marketing and distribution, making it difficult for new, sustainable clothing brands to compete.

• Regulations and Standards: There are limited regulations and standards for sustainable fashion in South Africa, which can make it difficult for new brands to establish their eco-credentials.

Despite these challenges, there are several ways that new sustainable clothing brands can overcome these barriers and succeed in South Africa. These include investing in marketing and education efforts to raise awareness of sustainable fashion, forming partnerships with established brands to access their networks and resources, and developing new, innovative materials and production methods that are more sustainable and cost-effective.

Sustainable clothing development in South Africa can be challenging, but with the right strategies and approach, it is possible to overcome these challenges and establish a successful, environmentally-friendly clothing brand.

How to start a sustainable clothing business

A sustainable clothing brand is a great way to make a positive impact on the environment while building a successful business. Sustainability is an increasingly important issue in the fashion industry, with consumers becoming more aware of the environmental and ethical implications of their purchases. Here are 8 steps to help you launch a successful brand:

1. Define your brand values: Start by defining your brand values, including the mission, vision, and goals of your brand. Consider factors like the environment, social responsibility, and quality. A clear brand identity will help you attract customers who share your values and help you stand out in a crowded market.

• Research your market: Conduct market research to understand the demand for sustainable clothing and identify opportunities in the market. This can include talking to potential customers, analysing competitors, and studying consumer trends. This information will help you refine your brand strategy and ensure that your products meet the needs and preferences of your target market.

• Source sustainable materials: Look for materials that are environmentally friendly and ethically sourced, such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel. Consider the entire lifecycle of the materials, from production to disposal, and look for materials that are renewable, biodegradable, or have a low environmental impact. Avoid materials that are harmful to the environment, such as toxic dyes and synthetic materials that release microplastics into the oceans.

• Choose a responsible manufacturer: Look for a manufacturer that shares your commitment to sustainability and ethical production. Consider factors like fair labour practices, energy efficiency, and waste reduction. A responsible manufacturer will help you ensure that your products are produced in an environmentally friendly and socially responsible manner.

• Design your collection: Design a collection that is both stylish and sustainable, using environmentally friendly materials and production methods. Look for ways to reduce waste, such as using fabric scraps for smaller items and offering custom sizes to reduce overproduction. Consider offering versatile and timeless styles that can be worn for years to come, reducing the need for frequent replacements.

• Build your website and online presence: Build a website and establish an online presence to showcase your collection and reach potential customers. Consider using eco-friendly web hosting and digital marketing strategies, such as influencer marketing and content marketing, to reach your target market and build brand awareness.

• Launch your brand: Launch your brand through social media, influencer marketing, and events. Use your brand values and sustainability message to differentiate yourself from other clothing brands and attract customers who share your values. Consider offering limited edition or exclusive items to generate excitement and interest in your brand.

• Continuously improve: Continuously evaluate your production methods and materials to ensure that they align with your sustainability goals. Make improvements where necessary and keep your customers informed about your progress. Consider offering transparency and accountability, such as publishing sustainability reports and offering tours of your production facilities, to build trust and credibility with your customers.

Starting a sustainable clothing business requires a commitment to using environmentally friendly and ethical production methods. However, with the right approach and a focus on quality and customer satisfaction, you can build a successful and sustainable business that makes a positive impact on the environment.

It’s worth noting that sustainable fashion can be a challenging and competitive industry, but with persistence, determination, and a commitment to sustainability, you can create a brand that not only looks good but also does good for the planet. As famous fashion designer Vivienne Westwood once said, “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” By following these principles, you can create a sustainable clothing brand that lasts for years to come.

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One of the most concerning chemicals found in clothing is formaldehyde. This chemical is commonly used as a preservative and is present in many clothing items, including wrinkle-resistant and stain-resistant clothing. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen linked to skin irritation, eye irritation, respiratory problems, and other health issues.

Another harmful substance found in clothing is phthalates. These chemicals are used to make plastic products, including clothing, more flexible and durable. Phthalates are endocrine disruptors, which means they can interfere with the normal functioning of hormones in the body. Exposure to phthalates has been linked to various health problems, including reproductive and developmental harm. Some phthalates have been banned in children’s toys and other products in the European Union.

In addition to these harmful chemicals, clothing production can also result in the release of toxic dyes into the environment. These dyes can contaminate water sources and harm wildlife, and some dyes have been linked to skin irritation and other health problems. Clothing production can also result in the release of microfibers into the environment, which can harm wildlife and enter the food chain.

So, what can you do to minimize your exposure to these harmful chemicals in clothing? One option is to look for clothing made from natural fibres, such as cotton, linen, and hemp, which are less likely to release harmful chemicals. You can also look for clothing that has been certified as organic, which ensures that it was produced without the use of these chemicals. Additionally, you can wash your clothes in cold water to minimize the release of microfibers into the environment, and hang dry your clothes instead of using a dryer, which can reduce the risk of exposure to formaldehyde.

It’s also important to be aware of the impact of our clothing choices on the environment. Fast fashion, the practice of producing and selling large quantities of clothing at a rapid pace, has serious environmental impacts, including the release of toxic chemicals into the environment and the use of vast amounts of resources, including water, energy, and materials. To minimize your environmental impact, consider investing in high-quality clothing that will last longer and reducing the amount of clothing you buy and dispose of.

In conclusion, the presence of harmful chemicals in clothing is a serious issue that can have significant impacts on our health and the environment. It’s important to be aware of the types of chemicals that may be present in our clothing and take steps to minimize our exposure to these chemicals. By choosing clothing made from natural fibres, using natural dyes and taking steps to minimize our environmental impact, we can help protect ourselves and the planet.

The Technology Station for Clothing and Textiles utilises cutting-edge equipment and expert technicians to test clothing for harmful chemicals. This station stays ahead of industry standards and provides a reliable source for retailers and consumers to ensure the safety of their clothing.

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Issue 1: 2021

A publication by the Technology Station: Clothing and Textiles, striving to improve the competitiveness of the South African Clothing and Textiles Sector.

I came across a few queries and interpretations regarding the term or abbreviation used in the clothing industry for what is commonly referred to as a CMT (Cut, Make and Trim) factory. Although the definition of a CMT can never be cast in stone it is important that there be some clarity especially to new entrants into the industry about what the scope of a CMT factory is in general.

According to Glock and Kunz (2000:279) “Cut make and trim contractors normally cut the garments from patterns supplied by the manufacturer and provide sewing operators, machines and thread to make garments.”

“Cut, make and trim (CMT) encompasses agreements that utilizes domestic or offshore contractors for cutting manufacturing and finishing of garments for which the product developer provides the design, patterns and fabrics”. (Keiser & Garner, 2008)

So simply put a CMT factory is a sub-contractor to a full package company or designer /design house i.e. the CMT cut’s the garment using the patterns and fabric that is supplied to them, they assemble the garment/product at the required quality level and within the agreed time frame and finishes, press and package the garment according to the specification. Trims such as zips, buttons and labels etc. have to be supplied to the CMT, however in most cases the CMT provides the thread but note you will have to bear the consequences if the quality of the thread or the colour does not meet your expectations.

As is noted in the SMME Clothing value chain diagram figure 1, various types of subcontracting operations have emerged over the last few years viz.

• MTs: CMTs that do not have the own cutting facility i.e. they are supplied cut components by the customer firm and for want of a better term I will call them MTs (Manufacture and Trimmers). There could be various reasons for this type of relationship, but one of the most important factors is to maximize the fabric utilisation. It is estimated that fabric is constitutes about 50% of the cost of the garment and every centimetre is precious and therefore the customer wants to take control of this. It may also be that the customer had the fabric specially designed or developed by a mill and would not be comfortable finding it in the market place before they have had a chance to put it in a store. 

• CUTTING SERVICE: So what if the MT does not have a cutting facility and neither the Design House/ Designer/Customer has a cutting facility? We then saw the emergence of freelance cutters that moved around from factory to factory plying their cutting skills and this eventually evolved into the establishment of dedicated Cutting Services with their own premises, staff and equipment. 

• FINISHING SERVICES: This entity offered a cleaning, pressing and packaging facility and emerged mainly due to garment importers viz. wholesalers and retailers finding that landed garments were not in a state that it could be sold immediately and required cleaning off of loose threads, pressing and re-packaging the garments, and even in some cases changing the labels

Figure 1: SMME CLOTHING VALUE CHAIN (Isaacs, 2006)

TIPS FOR DESIGNERS/ RETAILERS

• The best CMTs are those that specialise in a product or at least stick to a fabric construction i.e. knitted fabrics or wovens. e.g. you cannot sew a t-shirt with a plain (lock stitch) machine, well you can but you should not. So therefore if you are making t-shirts and your CMT does not have a mock safety machine and a cover seam machine steer clear of them. Specialisation helps but is not always possible. If a CMT has only been producing one type of product for the last 5 years e.g. pants, probabilities are they are good at it and that the industry has recognized this and constantly supplies them with orders.

• The lowest price should not be the main factor when selecting a CMT. “QUALITY” and “ON-TIME” delivery should be.

• Doing small order quantities are not always good business practice for a CMTs, especially at the minimum price. If you want to produce one or two garments per style you need a dress maker or sample machinist not a CMT. Yes, there are current experimentation taking place with regard to mass customisation, but this requires a rethink on design. This however does not stop you from doing a pilot production i.e. producing a small quantity to test the water with the view of later producing a larger quantity.

The production learning curve (figure 2) illustrates typically what may happen over a period of time as output per hour would increase as the operator familiarises themselves with the new style. Units produced increase every hour until it reaches a plateau and similarly quality challenges (repairs, re-work, rejects) decrease over time. This means that in a small order per style, the CMT would not be able to maximize its productivity (PRODUCTIVITY = OUTPUT/INPUT)

Figure 2: Production Learning curve.

TIPS FOR CMTs

• Yes, you can market your business, but you have to show what you are capable of doing e.g. prepare samples of the garments that you specialise in.

• Have an independent evaluator appraise your product, and accept constructive criticism.

• Communicate to your customer:
  • List of machines available
  • What services you offer
  • What special skills you offer
  • How many units you can produce a day/week.
  • What is your claim to fame?
  • Even tell the customer what you cannot do.

• Have a contactable telephone number and email address that belongs to the business.

CONCLUSION

The clothing industry has very low barriers to entry, i.e. you can start a business with one sewing machine under the arm. This however also makes it very competitive with small businesses having to fight for a piece of the pie.    

What is needed is to professionalise the sector especially at the SMME level. This will be for later discussion.

Reference
Glock, R.E. & Kunz, G.I. 2000. Apparel Manufacturing, Sewn Products Analysis. New Jersey: Prentice Hall

Keiser S.J., & Garner M.B., 2008. Beyond Design, The synergy of Apparel product development. New York: Fairchild Publishing

The Textile Innovation Network a publication by the Technology Station: Clothing and Textiles, striving to improve the competitiveness of the South African Clothing and Textiles Sector.

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Technology Station: Clothing and Textiles

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